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Grooming Help Scissors and Clippers
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Clipping Problems
Tram Lines
Tram Lines are caused by the cutter on your clipper head, not being moved far enough from side to side over the comb half of the blade, to complete the cut. It occurs most frequently on blades where the teeth are further apart (Numbers 7, 5, 4, & 3).
There are a number of causes:
1. The lever on your clipper (the part which moves from side to side when you when you switch the clipper on) is worn down in width, thereby reducing the amount the cutter can be moved from side to side.
Do it yourself solution: Fit a new lever, we can supply Clipper Parts .
2. The ears on the blade socket on the clipper head have spread out, allowing the clipper head to move from side to side on the hinge assembly. Frequently this is accompanied by rattling when running, this reduces the amount the cutter can be moved from side to side.
Do it yourself solution: With a pair of pliers, grip the tip of each ear and reduce the gap between the ears. (do not do this with Laube clipper heads, the ears are hardened and may break off).BladeSpares
3. The screws holding the hinge assembly (the hinge assembly is the part you fit your blade to on the clipper) on your clipper are loose, allowing the assembly with the clipper head attached to move from side to side. As the whole cutting head is moving the amount the cutter is moving over the comb is reduced.
Do it yourself solution: Tighten the screws up. If the problem reoccurs apply
some Loctite screw retainer to the screws. (available from Halfords).
4. The hinge assemble is not securing the clipper blade securely. Close the hinged lever down without a blade attached, the lever should be tight down on the main body of the assembly.
Do it yourself solution: Fit a new hinge assembly, we can supply.
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Tools Required
Soldering Iron
Small flat screwdriver
Small Pozi or Phillips screwdriver
No 8 & No 10 Torqs security screwdrivers (Ones with hole in centre)
Long nosed pliers
1. Take the end cap from the clipper by removing the two recessed screws located either side of the rocker switch. These will be either Pozi / Phillips head or No 8 or 10 torqs security. The end cap will now lift off the clipper with the cable.
Note: End cap to body casing location points.
A. The male location ‘’’’ on the edge of the end cap and the female location recess on the end of the body casing.
B. Which contactor goes to which end cap retaining position.
2. Remove the two screws retaining the brass contactors to the inside of the end cap.
Note: The orientation of the switch within the end cap.
3. The rocker switch must now be lifted from the end cap. At one end of the switch facia push a thin flat screwdriver under the plastic switch cover ensuring it goes under the edge of the switch and lift this end up about 2mm. Repeat this on the other end of the switch. The switch can now be lifted far enough to clear the end from the end cap, slide the cable location moulding across into the switch hole, the complete cable assembly incorporating the switch and internal wiring can now be removed from the end cap, it will be necessary to manipulate the internal wiring and connections to thread through the switch hole.
Note: The wire colours going to the switch and the brass terminal.
(The brown goes to the centre terminal on the switch and the blue to the appropriate brass contactor)
4. The old cable can now be removed from the assembly and the new one soldered into position.
5. To reassemble feed the brass contactors followed by the wiring into the switch location hole, locate the strain relief moulding on the cable end into the half round recess in the side of the switch hole and push the switch firmly into position making sure the speed markings on the switch are positioned as previous. Long nose pliers can be used to manipulate the wiring into position inside the end cap, secure the brass contactors onto the location posts.
6. Refit the end cap making sure the location lug on the end cap aligns with recess on the main body.
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Tools Required
Small flat bladed screwdriver.
Small Pozi or Phillips screwdriver
MAKE SURE THE CLIPPER IS UNPLUGGED BEFORE PROCEEDING
Note: the location position of the wire hanging bracket. (This will probable fall out when you remove the cable)
1. Remove the four pozi screws holding the two halves of the body case together and ease the two halves of the casing apart.
Note: the location and orientation of the strain relief bush on the end of your existing cable in the body casing, and the location of the wire colours in the terminal block.
2. Undo the two screws in the terminal block, pull the wires from the terminal block and remove the old cable from the clipper.
Ease the new cable into position in the body casing, making sure it is the same way round as the original.
Push the wires into the terminal block making sure the colours are located as the original.
Ease the two halves of the body casing together, position the screws, (short ones at cable inlet end) and tighten.
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Understanding Scissors
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WHAT DOES ICE TEMPERED MEAN
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The word ICE is so popular that a lot of carbon steel scissors proclaim to be ice tempered, which does not make any sense technically. Some people even think ICE is a brand name. The only important thing to remember is that ice tempering is only beneficial on stainless steel.
In a simplified form, stainless steel is standard steel with chromium added to make the steel more rust resistant, thus stainless steel. The disadvantage of the high content of chromium in stainless steel is that the cutting edges blunt quicker leading to scissor sharpening. To overcome this, the steel is subjected to very low temperatures (frozen or “ice tempered”), to optimise the steel structure for hardness. This is how it works:
To make a steel hard, it has to be heat treated. With Stainless steel that means heating the steel above 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. At that temperature the structure of the material is at its optimum. To preserve this structure, the steel is cooled rapidly (quenched) and tempered at about 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Now you have a pretty good hardness and flexibility on you scissors except that the chromium in the steel will not permit a long lasting cutting edge. To make the cutting edge last longer, the steel is subjected to about 120 degrees below zero; in other words, Ice tempered. The scissors are not much harder, but the steel structure is at its optimum. It is virtually impossible to prove or disprove if Ice Tempering was done, without a steel analysis. The only proof is how many cuts one can get with a pair of scissors before they are blunt.
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GERMAN / JAPANESE SCISSOR DIFFERENCE
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The Edge: Japanese style scissors have very sharp edges that taper to a point called a convex edge. These edges are very thin and sharp allowing the user to cut all techniques, including slide cuts and wisping. Because Because the edges are so sharp, they would rub themselves dull on the hollow side of the edge. To keep this from happening, a hone line is ground in the hollow along the edge. The hone line is the thin flat line that you see on the hollow side of the edge that runs from the tip of the scissors to the back. This gives the scissor a smooth and quiet run. If we did not grind on a hone line, the scissor would run hard and loud. (The run is the feel and function of opening and closing the scissor). If a scissor sharpener does not sharpen and re-hone your scissor correctly, the scissor will never feel like when it was new. But if sharpened correctly, the scissor often feels and cuts better than when it was new!
A German scissor has flatter edges than a convex scissor. We call this a sword or bevel edge. Bevel edges are not as angled as a convex edge, thus requireing one or both edges to be serrated or corregated. A serreation are fine lines or teeth ground into the edge of one blade. The serration holds the hair, keeping it from being pushed forward.
Now we come to the performance difference differce between the Japenese (convex edge) and German (bevel edge) scissors. Because of its very sharp edges, the convex scissor cuts through hair smoothly and efficiently, with less force. The convex scissor is constructed for slide cutting or wisping. It runs smoothly, quietly, and very lightly. However it has the tendency to nick and blunt faster than a bevel edge scissor. It also has a tendency to push the hair more than a serrated bevel edge scissor.
The bevel edge scissor is very durable. It holds the hair very well and does not push it forward. It is the scissor of choice for blunt and layer cutting, dry cutting and for the cutting of synthetic and coarse hair. Its major drawbacks are that one cannot slide cut with it, because of the serration, and it runs louder and rougher than a convex scissor.
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